MY DEFINITIVE 1 DAY GUIDE TO PROVINS
This is my one day guide to Provins, France. This is the perfect guide for those looking for a unique experience of Paris avoiding the usual day trips to Versailles or Fontainebleau. However, if you have not done Versailles or Fontainebleau before, consider doing them first as they are more of the quintessential Paris experience. I have previously an article on them and you can find it here.
BACKGROUND
I had a day to spare as I was in Paris for a long work trip. I wanted something different for this trip having seen all the usual sights before. While I had originally intended to go to Rouen, I settled for Provins. It was a good choice.
WHY PROVINS?
There is not much information online other than the fact that Provins is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in France. This sort of sparked a desire in me to give this place a try since I am interested in such things.
SO, WHAT IS PROVINS LIKE?
Hmm… to me, I felt as though I was teleported into A Knight’s Tale. Do not get me wrong. Provins is not a backwater town trapped in the medieval ages with rundown facilities. It is as modern as any town in France. But what makes Provins unique is the fact that the town is separated into two levels: The Upper Levels and the Lower Levels. The medieval town used to stretch and cover both levels but with modernisation, the lower levels have been redeveloped. The magic can be found in the upper levels.
GETTING TO PROVINS FROM PARIS
Provins lies about 90km from Paris and is just a commuter train ride away. There is no need to reserve any tickets. The trains leave every hour from Gare de l’Est station and take approximately 1 hour 20 minutes.
Expert Tip: Take the earlier trains out of Paris so as to maximise your day in Provins. This would help avoid feeling rushed. The point where you begin your visit (i.e. Office of Tourism) is on the other side of town so some walking is required. The walk to the Office of Tourism from the train station will take approximately 30 minutes. The local Tourist Office opens at either 9am (Summer) or 9.30am (Winter).
Leaving the the station, there are well placed signs guiding you to the Office of Tourism.
Expert Tip: You don’t have to worry much about missing certain sights along the way. While I found the town layout odd, it will still work out fine and you will get a chance to visit most, or if not all, of the attractions along the way coming back.
Expert Tip: While this didn’t apply to me (went during the low season), during the high season, there are minibuses available to take you to the various tourist landmarks. For more information, visit www.provins.net .
OFFICE OF TOURISM IN PROVINS
Ask for the Provins Pass (12 Euros (Adult) / 8.50 Euros (Children)) if you are travelling alone or for the Family Pass (35.50 Euros) if you are travelling as a family unit (2 Adults and up to 5 Children). They allow access to 4 different attractions: Caesar Tower, Tithe Barm, Underground Galleries and Museum.
Three different live performances are available for viewing (tickets charged separately): The Eagles of the Ramparts, The Legend of the Knights and The Age of the Ramparts. The performances generally are available for most part of the year (except from November to end March). There are discount tickets available if you intend to catch both The Legend of the Knights and also the Age of the Ramparts. A word of caution, it may be overly ambitious to do both shows unless you start the day early. As there will be a fair bit of walking, do time your visits and ensure you get to the locations on time. During my visit, only two performances were available (The Eagles of the Ramparts, The Legend of the Knights). I went with the latter as I felt it would be more exciting.
Be sure to grab a map while you are there.
THINGS TO DO WHILE IN PROVINS
The great thing about Provins is the variety of activities available for different age groups and also those with different interests.
There are three different suggested routes to take during your visit: The Count Thibaud Tour, The Rose Road and the Rampart Tour. Each suggested route has a specific focus but overlap quite a fair bit. My suggestion is to go for the Rose Road (through the Saint-Jean’s gate) as it would cover most of the attractions and yet still doable in terms of walking distance. If you would like to see more of the Ramparts and also cover the Rose Road, head along the ramparts towards the Jouy Gate and carry on from there.
Attractions
If you are like me and are taking the Rose Road, my suggested itinerary would be as follows. Do check with the Office of Tourism if there are any special activities available or events happening.
The Saint-Jean’s Gate and the Ramparts (Optional can push till later)
These walls were built in the 13th century and are currently being restored. This gate protects the old road to Paris. To the right of the gatehouse is the performance area for Legend of the Knights and the Age of the Ramparts.
The reason why I put this as optional is because is not necessary at this point of the tour to check it out in depth especially if you are running late. There will be an opportunity to climb up the ramparts later if you are watching the Legend of the Knights in the afternoon.
The Tithe Barn
Located close to the Saint-Jean’s Gate is the Tithe Barn. This property used to be rented by passing merchants to store their wares when they were in town for fairs. The attraction comes with an audio guide that blends historical information with scenography and helps bring to life the various displays there.
Expert Tip: Consider having lunch near here or near Place du Chatel as it would be the most convenient location for this itinerary. I had mine at Hôtel Restaurant Aux Vieux Remparts Provins.
Caesar Tower
This keep was built in the twelfth century and was used as a watch tower, prison and bell tower. The top floor offers a fantastic view of the country side and also the town.
Museum
The museum is located in one of the oldest houses of the town and houses collections related to the town. I had to skip this as I was running late. If hard-pressed for time, I suggest skipping this for the Underground Galleries.
Underground Galleries
This attraction can only be done in a guided tour. So for all those English speaking visitors, please check with the Office of Tourism the timing for the English tour (available only during the weekend and public holidays). The tour starts on the ground level where the guide brings you through the hospital that used to operate out from that building before heading down into the underground galleries. During the time of my visit, the English tour starts at 2.30pm.
Legend of the Knights
Once done, you have to head back towards the Saint-Jean’s gate if you intend to catch the afternoon show. There will usually be a crowd heading that way. If unsure, follow the crowd. The performance is fast paced and starts off with the triumphant return of Earl Thibaud IV from the Crusades before taking a dark twist.
The Provins Rose Garden
End of the day with a slow walk back towards town following the Rose Road. The Rose Garden covers 3 hectares with a wide range of roses. Remember to flash your Provins Pass to get a small discount on your entry ticket.
Finishing the day
Head back towards the train station. Consider grabbing dinner in the newer parts of town or head back to Paris for a late dinner.
